Here's how Al L changed the chain routing and added padding

Al says:

I installed an idler under the seat by using one of the unused seat 

mounting holes.  I had to grind a nut very flat for the bolt to thread into 

between the seat and the frame.  From there, I used washer to space it.  I 

turned the idler wheel myself on a lathe, but it can be done with a hand 

drill and file if you are patient.  The chain runs above the right frame tube 

and above the chain stay.  

I had to adjust the front derailer so the chain wouldn't hit. It makes the shifting a little sloppy, but works. I changed the rear cassette to an 11x23. Using the original cassette will cause the chain to rub on the bottom of the seat when in the larger cogs. I put some protective tape (yes, duct tape) on the chain stay.

The chain doesn't rub, but will slap the frame on bumps. The fact that the chain angle is reduced really reduces the force and wear on the idler wheel. Also, because the chain isn't rubbing the wrong way on the return, friction is greatly reduced. I'd like to go to a bigger chain ring, but the new chain routing won't allow it. The chain line would change some depending on how you have the seat set up.

2) I still have problems from time to time with my butt bottoming out on the frame during bumps. I bought a foam pad from Walmart that is used as a knee pad for gardening. I split it with a razor blade and strapped in to the seat (it is the green thing on the seat). This really helped my position in the seat and I haven't felt the frame since I did it.
3) You get a better look at the entire trike with the wheel covers. One thing that I would note with the wheel covers is that I do notice being blown around by trucks as they pass me on down hills. It can be pretty dramatic. I don't loose control, but they can easy suck me over a foot with little warning.
Enjoy! - Al L

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